CMF Track Trip

May 2011
Gu Nissan standard, Pagero front lockers, Navara D22 standard.

Travelled up past the Thomson Dam, turned right at Walhalla road and then left down CMF Track.
Arrived after dark at the Aberfeldy River crossing at the start of 'North East Track' and set up an overnight camp.

The CMF track would be rated as 'easy' on this and at most times of the year and as I've done this track several times, the night drive didn't present any issues.
Trig Track crosses around half way down CMF and is an interesting track for those looking for something more challenging. - there's a 'seasonal' gate at this point of Trig Track.

At the CMF river crossing on the Aberfeldy River there is ample room for 6 or 8 vehicles and being a popular spot there is no firewood.

Day 1 - North East Track - Williamson Spur Track - Army Track
The start of North East Track from the river is relatively steep with loose boulders and ledges - rated as 'moderate' on the day.

From memory a small amount of moisture wouldn't add to the difficulty on this section as the track is fairly well covered, but the gradient does make for some interesting driving.
Dream Creek track joins in from the left after about a 400 meter altitude climb and then One Speck Track from the right about 2 km further along.
This section follows along the ridge line through to the Williamson Spur Track intersection and is an easy high range drive.
Turned right into Williamsons and then left down Army Track heading for Store Point on the Donnelly Creek Track.
Williamson Spur Track, in this section, is an easy run where you could give the front hubs a rest.
Army Track on the day was 'easy' to 'moderate' with some deep wash outs requiring some slow pace and good vehicle positioning. Coming up on a wet day could be a different story.

Store Point Hut on Donnelly Creek Track

Had a half-hearted look for the cemetery in behind Store Point Hut along the McKean Creek but turned back after encountering a deep washout.
Decided to do a run part way up Morning Star Track, partly to see if there were any more windscreens and body parts but primarily as one of the group hadn't climbed it before.

Morning Star Track

On this particular trip due to the dry conditions it would be rated as 'moderate' to 'difficult' but on previous trips we've had 'extreme' conditions.
I can only speak of the first 2 or 3km's as on each trip we've turned around where the track starts to level out to head back towards O'Tooles Flat.
Back towards the start of the track (about 200 meters from the Donnelly Creek crossing) there's a walking track into the 'Water Wheel' on Morning Star Creek.
At the crossing there's room for 5 or 6 vehicles to set up camp beside the creek.
Back around the bend opposite Store Point Hut on Donnelly Creek Track, directly before you start the climb towards 'Edwards Hill', there's a similar area that could accomodate 3 or 4 hehicles.
Both locations are good for water, small brown trout and a distinct lack of firewood.
Travelled west along Donnelly Creek Track to set up an overnight camp at O'Tooles Flat stopping along the way to look at a few of the old shafts that are littered along Donnelly Creek.
About half way to S Track, before Clear Creek, theres a 2 vehicle campsite on the Donnelly Creek (approx. 37.45.06S 146.28.44E).

O'Tooles

Day 2 - Jorgenson Flat, Merringtons, Dream Creek Track.Left O'Tooles early morning and travelled through to the 'Junction' stopping off at Jorgensons to make use of the DSE toilets.
All of the Donnelly Creek track is rated as 'Easy'. Possibly the hardest driving is looking out for oncoming traffic as this entire area is usually busy even on a normal weekend.
This particular trip the main track was pretty well cut up, especially on the Store Point end, due to traffic and a load of rain the week before.
Just immediately past Jorgensons there's a short track to the left leading down to a small camp area - but you've got to be lucky to find it vacant.
North of Jorgensons Hut there's the Toombon area with the Toombon Mine and Toombon Cemetery - well woth the drive - and Jorgensons Track that loops around and comes back to the hut area.
The hut on the escarpment above the junction of Donnelly Creek and the Aberfeldy is worth a visit (toilets a hundred odd meters further along from the hut) even if it's just to cross it off the list.

Aberfeldy crossing at the Junction

The views are good and it's a good spot to bring out the cameras. Plenty of campsites for those who don't mind company.

The hut overlooking the Junction

At the Junction below the hut looking back towards Donnelly Creek Track

Ended up back on the Walhalla Road and as it was only late morning decided to go down Dream Creek Track and then loop back retracing CMF Track from the previous day.
Dream Creek Track down to the Aberfeldy was reasonably broken up but with reasonable ground clearance would be rated as 'Moderate'.
At the river there is only campsite room for 2 vehicles.
The climb up, to the right hand turnoff into CMF, is long and reasonably steep but is (was) smooth with no ledges.

Top of the climb up Dream Creek Track from the Aberfeldy River

Recrossed the Aberfeldy and stopped off along CMF at the Trig Track intersection to take some more pictures of the 'switchbacks' on Trig.

Not a very good picture but the switchbacks on Trig in centre of frame.

Turned left down the Aberfeldy Road, passing Beardmores, with the thought of returning home via Walhalla.
Managed to get as far as the Aberfeldy River Crossing and then not long after had to turn back due to a landslide blocking the road.
Did the short stint back to the Thompson Dam wall and then home.

Camping area Walhalla Road - Aberfeldy crossing.

  

Butcher Country Trip

December 2009

2 GU Nissan Patrols standard running gear.

A quick 2 day trip up Butcher Country Track, down into Wonnangatta and out to Dargo via Talbotville.
Drove into the Macalister from Bull Plain Spur just on dark on the Friday night and set up camp at the 'Sisters' - junction of the Macalister and Caladonia rivers.
There used to be a hut in this clearing in the late 70's early 80's which was affectionately called 'Honeymoon Hotel'. Hut is possibly overstating its grandeur. Shack is more fitting to its status when I last saw it.



Campsite at the Sisters.

There had been a major land slip up along the Caladonia just prior to our trip and the water coming down was chocolate compared to the crystal clear water in the Macalister.
Bit hard to see in the pic. but the Macalister is in the foreground running left to right and the Caladonia (that looks like a sandbank) at the rear.

Junction of the Macalaster and Caladonia


Left early Saturday morning and travelled the 8 odd kilometers up to the Butcher Country turnoff.
The track with 9 crossings along this section of the Macalister is 'easy' with several campsites for 2 or 3 vehicles and some good holes and runs for those after small brown trout.
Even though there's a lot of wattle regrowth along the valley after the fires, there's plenty of spots to pull over and enjoy the scenery.



Macalaster River around the 3rd crossing



Started up Butcher Country mid morning and climbed the roughly 35 kilometers to the Howitt Plains.
Somewhere along the way we missed seeing the Caladonia turnoff. From memory it's about 9 or 10 km up from the Macalister, but someone must have shifted it that particular day.
The track is reasonably steep in sections but unless it's seriously wet it doesn't cause too many heart pulpitations.
It's rating is single diamond but as with any track, especially at higher altitudes, this can change hourly.
We heard a convoy of 10 vehicles over the UHF coming down Butcher Country so decided to pull over and spend an hour reaching into the esky and taking in the views. This track, for scenery, has got to be up there with the top 5 tracks on this side of the high country.




About halfway up Butcher Country looking back towards the Macalster Valley

Towards the top where it flattens off onto the plains there can be a lot of surface water. Even then, in December, there was a fair amount of mud stretches and evidence of vehicles winching.
Not being righteous or up myself but it's important not to deviate too far from the track to avoid mud stretches and obstacles in these areas. The ground is fragile enough without vehicles fanning out across the plains.
Turned right at the Howitt road, had a quick stop at Howitt Hut and then went down Zeka Spur Track into Wonnangatta Valley.
Zeka is rated at 'moderate' with no real issues except for the need to be alert to other vehicles coming at you. On a 'normal' weekend it can get quite busy - on a long weekend it can rival city link.
At some stage, in the mid 80's I think, this track used to extend (again I think) further to the north and encompass what we used to refer to as the Devils Staircase.
It was re-routed to the Zeka creek valley at some point and then re-aligned again to it's present location.
The lower sections of the Zeka Creek Track could be a challenge in its time with some of the mud holes capable of swollowing vehicles.
At the time of the Devils Staircase route, the track from the head of the valley to the homestead area was out on the flats. It now follows along and partly up the side of the valley until near Zeka Creek when coming in.
I can recall, in '84 or '85, being held up for around 4 hours trying to leave the valley on the original track after a bucket load of rain. Virtually everyone in the valley at the time had the same thought as our group - to get out before the track got cut up. Ended up a bottle-neck with about 2km of axle deep mud.
Once you've reached the valley floor and passed the turn-off to Rileys Creek Track then it's around a 7km easy drive to the homestead area.



The original homestead site.

The original homestead burn down in the mid 1950's and the hut close by was built in 1957 by Arthur and Jack Guy, Alec Traill and George Annand.
The pick of the campsites for shade during hot weather is in the 'horse paddock' on the southern side of Conglomorate Creek. This area was where the homestead horses were kept.



Horse Paddock - the original station horses were kept in this area.

The tree canopy gives excellent shade, water is handy and the toilets are just across the main track heading south.
Firewood is extremely limited but can usually be sourced from further down the track heading for the lower end of the valley.

Day 2 - Talbotville - Dargo
To climb to the Cynthia Range You can either take the right fork after the river crossing towards Hernes Spur Track - there are several good campsites along the Wonnangatta before you start the proper climb up - or head left with 3 more crossings and up Wombat Spur Track.
Water levels can get high with these crossings so if your unsure it may pay to get the feet wet unless you've got all the holes plugged.



Wonnangatta River crossing

Wombat meets up with Hernes at the top and the start (or end) of Cynthia Range Track.
Cynthia Range Track is an easy high range drive for most of it's length.



Top of Wombat Spur Track looking back to the north.

Driving west into rain along the Cynthia Range Track

On this trip we opted to turn left down Station Track, which due to it's clay base can get greasy in the wet and can vary from moderate to difficult depending upon moisture. It's the more direct route if heading out towards Talbotville and then to Dargo.
At the bottom of Station Track you meet with Pioneer Track at 'Pioneer Racecourse'.

Pioneer Racecourse at the bottom of Station Track

Near the bottom of Station Track

 

There are several campsites in this area beside the Wongungarra River - one directly ahead at the intersection, which can accomodate a number of vehicles. Once again firewood can be a challenge.
The run from here through to Talbotville flats is uneventful. High range easy track with some gates that may need opening or closing.
From Talbotville climbed up McMillan Spur Track towards the bitumen and then the down to Dargo
Stopped in at Grant township site and the Grant Cemetery again this trip to show the 2 'newbies' the area and to take in some of the history.   
 

 


 

Crooked River Trip

August 2011

Day 1. Met up with friends from Frankston at Traralgon & travelled through to Kingswell Bridge on the Wonnangatta Road.
Crooked River Track takes off to the right & eventually passes beside a homestead (always have empathy for those buggers with the traffic that must pass by) just prior to the first river crossing.
Looked at this crossing a few years back but as the water was high & flowing fast we opted for Randalls Track which heads off to the right before the crossing . . .  but thats another trip.
The majority of 'Crooked River Track' on the southern side of Talbotville is easy with a number of camp sites & large open spaces along the river towards the talbotville end - past the Cynthia Range Track turnoff. From memory, at the first very open area beside the river that you get to there is a track in the southern end that crosses the river (Wongungarra) & continues through for around half a km & dead ends back on the river. Fits around 5 vehicles.
All this area is leased property so look out for the Herefords.
There's a shortage of firewood but the waters handy with small brown trout looking for a hook.

Second river crossing

Wongungarra River beside campsite

  

Day 2. Through to Wonnangatta Station.
 Backtracked around a km & turned right up Cynthia Range Track. This Track has a relatively steep climb at the start, which would be rated at moderate to easy in the dry, with a good outlook for some snaps at the top. The rest of Cynthia through to Wombat Spur Track is uneventful but the scenery from up on the range is something to write home about.
We opted for Wombat Spur track to descend into the valley. You can take a shorter route down Hernes Spur Track into the southern end of Wonnangatta but I have had previous experiences with Hernes . . . once again thats another trip . . .so we opted for a 'cruisier' trip.



Top of Wombat Spur Track looking back to the north.

If you do take Hernes Spur there are some excellent camping & fishing spots down on the Wonnangatta River, before you meet up again with the extension of the Wombat Spur loop.
At the bottom of Wombat Spur you meet up with the Humffrey river Track and the Tea Tree Range Track coming in from the right. Tea Tree Range Track can be easily seen on the descent of Wombat.
Sharp left and you meet up again with Hernes Spur track after 3 river crossings.After the fourth crossing it's around 8 km to the Homestead.
There's an upper and lower track along the majority of this section with the lower track, although liable to get muddy and greasy with a bit of traffic, gives access to a number of campsites on the Wonnangatta River.
Just before you cross Conglomorate Creek, where the valley opens out, there's good camping in the 'horse yard' area with a canopy of what I assume are english trees.
Failing that, turning right after crossing Conglomorate leads down to the river with campsites and toilets.
Wonnangatta Valley . .  what can be said to extol its significance as to one of the major 'have to go to places' in the High Country. Steeped in mystery & an iconic part of Victorias heritage.
I met up with a vehicle (nearly literally) coming down the old 'Devils Staircase Track' in the mid '80's with South Aus number plates - when I mentioned that they were a long way from home they replied that the word had spread that 'Wonnangatta' was the place to go to.
The north west exit from the valley is now up Zeka Track. I've lost track (no pun), but when I first visited, the way up to Howitt was further north up Devils Staircase. At some stage it was rerouted along Zeka Creek & then to its present location.
There used to be a shipping container at the far top end of the valley behind the homestead that (I beleive) housed aviation fuel for rescue choppers based at Sale. Maybe someone with more knowledge can refute or acknowledge this. Anyway on this trip there was no sign of it having ever been there.
As much as I have enjoyed Wonnangatta over the years I can't help but feel that it has lost it's ranking as a place to go to & be seen in. Long drops have been installed & the grass is slashed over summer.
On the last trip into Wonnangatta, around early 2009 coming in from Butcher Country, all the grass area in this section of the valley had been slashed by the DSE. Maybe it would have been better to leave the cattle in there rather than cancelling the leases.
If all the good campsites are taken, which is not unusual unless you get in early, there are places to get down to the river further up the valley - the water can be assured of being cleaner upstream which is a bonus.
Way back in the '70's when I first ventured into Wonnangatta it was not unusual to meet other 4wd's many of whom were deer hunters, but now the numbers that get in there, even on a normal weekend, is mind blowing.
It won't be long before campsites are numbered and you'll need to book beforehand.

Wonnangatta Valley looking north from Conglomorate Creek







Failing to find a camp site in the 'main' area, there are a few good sheltered places along Conglomorate Creek. Follow the track past the Widow Maker beside the Homestead site and the side valley opens up to follow the creek.
I believe this area of the valley was where crops were grown by the Bryces who acquired the lease in the 1860's.
For those heading back via Licola, the Zeka Spur track,leading up to the Howiit High Plains, is at the far northern end of the valley and clearly marked.
We left Wonnangatta mid afternoon and retraced our route back up Wombat Spur. Travelled along Cynthia and then turned left down Station Track doing a loop via Pioneer Racecourse, Talbotville and back to the campsite on the Wongungarra.
One of our vehicles did a CV joint and lost front wheel drive just as we were starting up Wombat and had to be towed up to the range and then eased down Station Track. It was drizzling rain but the tracks were still firm.
Station track, as with most in this area, is clay based and can need some attention if there's a bit of moisture around but overall it would rate as 'moderate'.
From the bottom, at Pioneer Racecourse, the track is easy and could comfortably be taken in 2wd (with ground clearance).
Had a brief look in at Talbotville and couldn't see the grass for the tents and vehicles. Made us cherish the fact that we'd opted to camp lower down.
There's 2, maybe 3, river crossings to handle into Talbotville and then to continue down the Crooked River Track but at the 'track open' time of year these generally have insignificant water levels.
Day 3. Bulltown along Crooked River Track.
Ventured back to Talbotville and continued along the eastern side of Crooked River. There's toilets at Talbotville, no firewood and McMillans Track which heads up to Grant and then back onto the bitumen down to Dargo.
The Crooked River Track north from Talbotville would be rated as 'easy'for most of the 'open' season. From memory there's around 13 crossings with some requiring decent suspension clearance. Other than that it's a pretty average track as far as scenery goes. Fairly typical of 'bottom of the valley tracks'.
For keen fishermen after a feed there is an abundance of small brown trout.
The main thing that struck me was the amount of scrubby regrowth along the valley. On previous trips before the fires the landscape was completely different.
Possibly, other than crossing it of the list of places to go to, the main things to look out for are the numerous shafts dotted along the track - many have been fenced off - and the Good Hope Mine which is to the right of the track. There's a carpark area and then a stiff uphill trek to get to the mine.
The Bull Town track, at the end of the Crooked River Track, climbs up to join McMillans Track. I haven't had the oppertunity to do this track but note that it is rated at double diamond - extreme. Maybe someone can comment.
Reversed our track back to camp.
Day 4. Talbotville - Grant - Dargo.
Nothing more needs to be said about Talbotville - on a quiet weekend it's a good base for drives into Wonnangatta or up Basalt Knob towards Blue Rag. On a busy weekend, if you like your bit of solitude, . . .don't
McMillan's Track on a busy weekend needs traffic lights. Be prepared to pull to the side every few minutes if there's traffic coming down. It's a relatively narrow track (road) with very steep drop-offs and it's easy to get involved in a traffic snarl with the possibility of up to a hundred plus people exiting the valley from a long weekend.
At the top of the range, the Grant township area - formerly Mt Pleasant - is worth while calling into for a look as is the Grant Cemetery which is a kilometer or so further along on the left beside the road.
Back on the bitumen it's a downhill run to Dargo.